North Sea lemon sole with dill butter and samphire

Bill Oldfield

Lemon SoleOne of the most evocative of smells is that of the sea and I don’t think anyone’s managed to bottle it yet. But samphire’s a herb or vegetable with an aroma that when fresh, instantly teleports you to the seaside.

Sometimes referred to as sea asparagus but more accurately called glasswort, samphire is found on coastlines and is mainly harvested, in the UK, from the mud flats of East Anglia between the months of June to September. It can be used as a simple starter – just blanch for a minute and dress with olive oil and lemon – or as here, as a natural complement to lemon soul.

Obviously, it’s not always that easy to get hold of but now’s the time to see if you can buy it. We get it from our delicatessen suppliers – so it is in the region – and it can occasionally be…

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